Cheongsam, New York Style-Part One

Kathrynne models her sheath dress and accessories inspired by the Chinese Cheongsam. A sheath pattern with two vertical darts on each side of the front and back dress formed the basis for the New York Style Cheongsam. Cap sleeves that are in one with the dress were added to the pattern. Instead of a Mandarin collar a high band collar cut on the lengthwise grain was used. No underlining was needed because the 100% cotton fabric used had enough body. A Japanese furoshiki with a small floral pattern suitable to 1:6 scale sewing provided the perfect look and feel for the dress.

The sheath dress was tapered at the side seams about 1/16″ at the hemline level. A line connecting this new point was drawn up to another point about 1/4′ down from the hipline. Instead of the side slits used in a traditional Cheongsam, a kickpleat was created at Center Back.

The Center Back placket was cut in one piece with the dress by adding 1/2″ to the Center Back of the pattern. In this way, the kickpleat was a continuation of the placket. Edges of the placket were finished with bias cut green tulle nylon vielling fabric. The collar at Center Back closes with a very small button and thread loop.

In New York Style Cheongsam, Part Two I will present close-ups and details for how the accessories for this ensemble were created.

A scan of this pattern is available for your use at https://theenchanteddressshop.wordpress.com/2015/11/03/pattern-scan-for-cheongsam-new-york-style-dress/

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Garden Party

I thought of a world of gazebos, afternoon tea, gardens with the fragrance of roses and lavender when working on the patterns for these dresses.

Brooke’s dress is accessorized with red seed bead earrings and bracelet.

Kathrynne’s favorite color is green. Her sash, earrings and bracelet are in deeper shades of green that complement the pattern on the dress.

The sashes were made with three layers of fabric and are part of the dress.  The first layer is bias cut satin overlaid with sparkle organza.  Under the satin is a very thin layer of nylon tulle.  After the dress was sewn the sash was covered with poly china silk fell stitched in place.

An overlay of blue-green sparkle organza adds depth of color to the emerald green satin sash of the dress.

The fabric used for the dresses is 100% cotton sewn by hand with Gutterman’s poly cotton thread.

The backdrops for these photos are reprints from “Barbie Goes To College” that I bought on eBay.  They create the atmosphere of a small town in Late Spring-Early Summer, a place where Brooke and Kathrynne would be the stars of the social scene with many friends to share their afternoon parties with.