Pattern Scan for “Cheongsam New York Style” dress

Photos of the finished dress are at this posting:  https://theenchanteddressshop.wordpress.com/2013/06/13/cheongsam-new-york-style-part-one/

The cheongsam was made using a Japanese medium weight cotton furoshiki.  If you use such a textile remember to select one with the smallest possible pattern.

If you are using a lightweight cotton, you may want to consider underlining the cheongsam to give it more body.  This will help the darts stay crisp and the curve over the hipline remain clear.   Please see this posting for details on underlining:  https://theenchanteddressshop.wordpress.com/2013/06/04/underlining-cutting-marking-and-basting-a-16-scale-doll-outfit/

I called this style “Cheongsam New York Style” because it is a simple dress that captures the look of a cheongsam but has an easy quality that does not require a high level of detail.  The simplicity frees you from having to create the look of the traditional Cheongsam with ball buttons and an assymetrical opening at the front.

Included is the pattern for the purse.  The posting with photos of the purse and jewelry is at https://theenchanteddressshop.wordpress.com/2013/06/21/cheongsam-new-york-style-part-two-the-accessories/

I drafted this pattern when I designed doll clothes under the name of Victoria Marie Celeste.

Pattern for “Cheongsam New York Style” dress.

Use of this pattern:  I am the creator of this dress and pattern.  I release it into the commons for use by others for personal or manufacturing purposes.  A link back to this blog is appreciated if you use the pattern.  I’d love to see a photo of your finished creation.  This 1:6 scale pattern was custom drafted for Sonokong Sharp and Aeyin.  If you are using any other make of 11 1/2″ fashion doll I recommend making a muslin first.

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Cheongsam, New York Style-Part One

Kathrynne models her sheath dress and accessories inspired by the Chinese Cheongsam. A sheath pattern with two vertical darts on each side of the front and back dress formed the basis for the New York Style Cheongsam. Cap sleeves that are in one with the dress were added to the pattern. Instead of a Mandarin collar a high band collar cut on the lengthwise grain was used. No underlining was needed because the 100% cotton fabric used had enough body. A Japanese furoshiki with a small floral pattern suitable to 1:6 scale sewing provided the perfect look and feel for the dress.

The sheath dress was tapered at the side seams about 1/16″ at the hemline level. A line connecting this new point was drawn up to another point about 1/4′ down from the hipline. Instead of the side slits used in a traditional Cheongsam, a kickpleat was created at Center Back.

The Center Back placket was cut in one piece with the dress by adding 1/2″ to the Center Back of the pattern. In this way, the kickpleat was a continuation of the placket. Edges of the placket were finished with bias cut green tulle nylon vielling fabric. The collar at Center Back closes with a very small button and thread loop.

In New York Style Cheongsam, Part Two I will present close-ups and details for how the accessories for this ensemble were created.

A scan of this pattern is available for your use at https://theenchanteddressshop.wordpress.com/2015/11/03/pattern-scan-for-cheongsam-new-york-style-dress/