Greenaway Girls: Kaitlynn’s Empire Dress with Pierette Collar Pattern

The photo of Kaitlynn’s dress and some sewing notes are in this posting.  There is also another posting about her accessories.

This pattern was custom drafted for Sonokong Sharp and Aeyin dolls.  Please make adjustments when using it for other types and dolls.  It is essential to proof the fit by means of a sample before cutting the fashion fabric.

I give permission for free use and circulation of this pattern.  Please give me credit and a link back to this blog.

Please Note:  This is style 2 not style 1.

Greenaway Girls Pattern for Molly’s Empire Waist Dress

The photo and some sewing details for Molly’s Greenaway Girls look are in this posting.

This pattern must be scaled to inches when printing.  A ruler or measurement line is included.

This pattern was custom drafted for the Sonokong Sharp and Aeyin dolls.  Use for any other type of doll will require modifications.  Please test on a toile before cutting the fashion fabric.

I permit free circulation and use of this pattern.  I would like credit for the pattern and a link back to this blog in return.

If you plan to add a ribbon trim along the empire waistline cut a little extra width at Center Back.  The application of ribbon tightens the fabric and fit.

Greenaway Girls Collection: Molly’s Empire Waist Dress with Pierrette Collar

The empire waist bodice for Molly’s dress was made from the fitted bodice. The neckline and side darts of the basic pattern were transferred to under the bust. The remaining portion of the fitted bodice was taped to a 1/2 A-Line skirt made from the basic skirt draft. A series of muslin toiles were made and adjusted until the lower skirt portion had a smooth fit without the need for darts below the bust.

The sleeves appear to be bell shaped but are just long kimono sleeves attached to front and back bodice. Extra width was added at the outer edges of the sleeve seams. A small vertical tuck runs along the back sleeve so that the fullness was better controlled.

The lower portion of the dress is underlined with tulle to help hold the shape of the A-line skirt much better.

The lace trim for the sleeve was hand stitched to the inside of the sleeve hem. Special application for the Pierrette Collar was developed and will be detailed in the next post.

The ribbon used under the bust is 1/4″ grosgrain ribbon folded in half so that the finished width is 1/8″ It was applied to the dress after sewing bodice and skirt seam. Fell Stitches were used to sew ribbon to dress.

Accessories for Kaitlynn’s Empire Waist Dress

I wasn’t sure what kind of jewelry would work well with Kaitlynn’s demure empire waist dress. At first I thought a simple crystal drop earring would look very sweet. But given that she has such a large amount of curls I wanted to do something that would balance out the slender effect the empire silhouette creates.

I stopped sketching and doodling and just began to look through all my beads and findings. I very much love the current trend in bold earring designs, especially chandelier earrings and long dangling earrings full of Swarovski crystals.

I decided to go free form and strung some tiny glass beads onto a length of wire. Then I twisted them into a semi-circular shape. The wire at each end of the semi-circle was then cut and twisted together using a needle nose plier. I left one end slightly longer so I could create a loop to go into the eye pin. When I placed these finished earrings into the earholes I thought it worked. The earrings did not get lost in Kaitlynn’s hairstyle and they managed to add some interest by drawing the eye horizontally before going vertically along the lines of the dress.

I highly recommend taking an amount of “play time” out when an accessory or finishing touch cannot be consciously decided once the dolly outfit is completed.

Greenaway Girls Collection: Kaitlynn’s Empire Waist Dress

Kaitlynn’s empire waist dress was inspired by the illustrations of Kate Greenaway as well as 1960s Mod London fashions. Two rows of lace were hand-stitched together to create the collar of the dress.

The neckline was first finished by using bias cut tulle strips around the round neckline. This provided a clean finish to the neckline.

The lace was then steam pressed and shaped by hand into a circle. Lastly it was placed around the finished neckline and stitched into place.The dress has close fitting kimono sleeves. Then, another strip of lace was sewn to the inside of the neckline.

The entire dress was made from a fitted bodice with kimono sleeves joined to a fitted skirt. The lower portion was developed by easing in the remaining dart ease to the bodice.

To give the cotton fabric some extra body to hold the shape of the empire waist I underlined the entire dress in lightweight nylon tulle.

The pocketbook was hand beaded and then sewn together.