Greenaway Girls: Kaitlynn’s Empire Dress with Pierette Collar Pattern

The photo of Kaitlynn’s dress and some sewing notes are in this posting.  There is also another posting about her accessories.

This pattern was custom drafted for Sonokong Sharp and Aeyin dolls.  Please make adjustments when using it for other types and dolls.  It is essential to proof the fit by means of a sample before cutting the fashion fabric.

I give permission for free use and circulation of this pattern.  Please give me credit and a link back to this blog.

Please Note:  This is style 2 not style 1.

Advertisements

Greenaway Girls Pattern for Molly’s Empire Waist Dress

The photo and some sewing details for Molly’s Greenaway Girls look are in this posting.

This pattern must be scaled to inches when printing.  A ruler or measurement line is included.

This pattern was custom drafted for the Sonokong Sharp and Aeyin dolls.  Use for any other type of doll will require modifications.  Please test on a toile before cutting the fashion fabric.

I permit free circulation and use of this pattern.  I would like credit for the pattern and a link back to this blog in return.

If you plan to add a ribbon trim along the empire waistline cut a little extra width at Center Back.  The application of ribbon tightens the fabric and fit.

Pattern for Afternoon Appointment Dress

This pattern was custom drafted for the Sonokong Aeyin and Sharp dolls. Their bodies are different from the Classic Barbie or Takara Jenny dolls. If you want to adapt this pattern to fit a different doll, I recommend making a toile first. To use this pattern you must first save it and then scale it to the proper size using the ruler in the scan as your guide.

Please see the following postings for how the finished dresses look and for some construction details. The armholes and neckline were finished with bias strips of organza. The fabric used was 100% cotton. This dress will work equally well with silky poly-blend fabrics. If using this type of fabric, bias cut strips of nylon tulle will make a better finishing for the armholes and neckline.

—–Photos and construction details for version 1 of Afternoon Appointment (with gathered waistline and lace collar), earrings and beaded bag.
http://wp.me/p3xS5g-j

—-Photos and construction details for version 2 of Afternoon Appointment (with ribbon trim at hipline), earrings and beaded bag.
http://wp.me/p3xS5g-H

Tip for making the handbags: Cut 2 pieces of the felt out using the pattern. Hand sew the beads to each piece. Then stitch the front and back of the handbag together using a small whipstitch along the edges sewing between the beads when needed. Use a jewelry chain for the handle.

Afternoon Appointment Front Pattern Piece. The line at the waist level is for the elastic and casing of version 1. The line at hip level is for placement of the ribbon trim used in version 2.

Afternoon Appointment back pattern piece and handbag pattern piece.

Sweet Leisure Pattern Scan

Please see the previous postings for details about the outfit and sewing:

Sweet Leisure: Kaitlynn’s Holiday Hostess Gown

Sweet Leisure: An inside look on the design and sewing details

The tape measure shown for the scale in each scan uses centimeters.

These patterns are custom drafted for Sonokong dolls but you are free to use them and change as you need to.  I’d love to see how you use and adapt them.

Please note:  You will need knowledge of using a printer to size up or down the results of the printout.  I do not have that knowledge but if anyone does and would like to send me the instructions I will be happy to post them here.

Skirt Front.

Skirt back.

Bodice Front and Back.

Christmas Dreams and New Year Wishes

The Coventry sisters (Kathrynne, Kaitlynn and Brooke) awoke early on Christmas Day to prepare a simple but elegant breakfast for their business associates Julie London and Molly Hamilton. Kathrynne, Kaitlynn and Brooke enjoy the times when they are engaged in buying trips for Julie and Molly’s dress shop.

Before attending to their guests, each sister made a wish as the sunshine streamed through the windows of the large bedroom they still share in common at their parents’ mini-mansion.

Kaitlynn.

Kaitlynn’s wish is for her family and friends to take time to enjoy the simple pleasures that make life sweet.

Kathrynne (left) and Brooke (right).

Kathrynne and Brooke dream about a time when they stay in touch more often by discussing things face-to-face instead of through texts and emails.

————————————————————————————————-

Julie (left) and Molly (right)

Molly awoke to the fragrance of cinnamon French toast as Julie entered the room with a stack on her plate. She encouraged Molly to hurry downstairs before everything was gone because unexpected callers had arrived.

Molly almost gasped telling Julie that as a fitting model for the Enchanted Dress Shop she cannot afford to gain much weight. Once they started discussing their dreams and hopes for the shop Molly decided there was plenty of work up ahead in the New Year. Julie would work an extra pound or two off once fittings and showings resumed mid-January.

——————————————————————————————————

The Enchanted Christmas Tree.

The Coventry Sisters along with Julie and Molly will be back at work after their holiday break with new styles and a few surprises. It might be a little while before they start sharing photos and updates. But all good things are worth waiting for and working towards.

With best wishes,

Molly
Julie
Kathrynne
Kaitlynn
Brooke

Please note: I did not make any of the sleepwear my dolls are wearing in these photos. They were a gift from my late mother. I don’t know where she bought them.

Sweet Leisure: An inside look on the design and sewing details

Dolly Jewelry Details

A combination of glass beads that complemented or matched the colors of the fashion fabric were used. I want to use this approach more in the future. I think that subtle gradations of color add an extra dimension to the interplay between jewelry and clothing. For this ensemble the gold beads break up the flow from cream into a palest creamy pink but at the time I thought it would provide interest. I think the ability to discern such flowing of one color into another takes time to develop.

Hand Sewing and Garment Construction Details

The marvelous thing about working in 1:6 scale is that there is an opportunity to try out couture techniques such as hand finished seams and closures. The plus side is that the large and more time consuming aspect associated with full scale clothing is not present. The drawback and challenge is finding the appropriate notions in small sizes. For this piece I experimented with rayon thread to sew and finish the seams. It is much more delicate and requires extra conditioning but the outcome was good in my opinion.

The gown was underlined in a very light weight poly china silk. Lace along the cuffs and neckline was applied along the outside of the neckline and sleeves after these were finished. I think inserting the lace into the seam makes for extra bulk.

Even though the gown was underlined I rarely catch stitch the seams to it since it sometimes distorts the shape of such small pieces. The facing edge at center front was the only part catch stitched from neck to hemline. Of course the hems of sleeves and skirt were also catch stitched to the underlining.

Pressing, Shaping and Fitting Details

Shape is built into the darts and waistline by hand pressing all seams before steaming over a tailor’s ham or sleeve roll. Although the craft supplier I bought these buttons from recommended them for 1:6 scale sewing I now think that even smaller buttons would have been more suitable. At the time, though, I could not find anything smaller in a cream color.

Commercially made fashion doll clothes often omit the darts at the back of a fitted bodice. With the patternmaking system I use I’ve found that the fit is unsuitable when these darts are eliminated. So I sew them in by hand very carefully. I do not sew the waistline of bodice and skirt together. Instead I lap the bodice seams over the skirt and fell stitch into place. The result is a better and smoother fit, even when there is a tiny bit of ease at the waistline.

I’ve also found that set in sleeves result in a bulky fit where the armhole meets the side seam. It is for this reason that up until now I’ve used variations of close fitting kimono sleeves without gusset for doll clothing. I’m considering using this type of sleeve to experiment with creating other sleeves that have the appearance of a raglan sleeve or a sleeve that combines kimono at the back and set in sleeve at the front of the bodice.

More to come in the New Year. Best wishes to all my readers and followers for a very happy holiday season.

Sweet Leisure: Kaitlynn’s Holiday Hostess Gown

Kaitlynn greets the mornings during the Christmas Season with a look of understated elegance.

Kaitlynn always takes her vacation during the Christmas Season. She enjoys receiving visitors during the week in which Christmas occurs and will have open house every afternoon from 1 – 4 p.m. Visitors are welcomed with a buffet style tea time complete with tea sandwiches, scones, biscuits and a cup of fresh brewed hot tea. Like her sisters Brooke and Kathrynne, Kaitlynn enjoys collecting vintage pieces. Her interests include unmatched pieces of porcelain and china teaware. Guests get to select the cup, saucer and cake dish they will use during the visit.

Some guests cannot make the afternoon open house so Kaitlynn welcomes them for a morning visit, often greeting them in one of her luxurious hostess gowns. This morning she decided that the lighter shades of peach and cream would be just as delightful as the darker pinks she wears during the holiday season. It helps that her guest parlor is also done up in pale, pastel colors and a cream colored Christmas tree adorned with pink lights is on display there.

Kaitlynn’s vintage cultured pearl bracelet with pale beads of gold was a gift from her sisters. They found it during one of their buying trips in London.

Kaitlynn enjoys combining a natural, understated look in hairstyling and make-up with elegant but simple pieces of jewelry. When she was able to locate the earrings and choker that went with the vintage bracelet she asked the estate seller in London to reserve them for her. Many told Kaitlynn that such elegant pieces deserve a dramatic evening dress and are better worn to an elegant function. She proved them wrong and has received many compliments on the day she wore the complete set of vintage jewelry with her custom made Holiday Hostess Gown.

————————————————–
Craft Notes

All jewelry was made using gold toned wire upon which glass seed beads were strung and then shaped to fit the doll. No measurements were used. All proportions were judged by eye, frequently gauging the effect against the doll dress in the finished outfit.

A scan of the pattern is available here.  Please note you will need knowledge of using the printer to scale up or down the results of the scan presented in the posting.  You may use the pattern freely and adapt as you want to.  It is custom drafted for a Sonokong doll such as the one shown here.  Making a muslin sample for another doll is recommended.

Greenaway Girls Collection: Molly’s Empire Waist Dress with Pierrette Collar

The empire waist bodice for Molly’s dress was made from the fitted bodice. The neckline and side darts of the basic pattern were transferred to under the bust. The remaining portion of the fitted bodice was taped to a 1/2 A-Line skirt made from the basic skirt draft. A series of muslin toiles were made and adjusted until the lower skirt portion had a smooth fit without the need for darts below the bust.

The sleeves appear to be bell shaped but are just long kimono sleeves attached to front and back bodice. Extra width was added at the outer edges of the sleeve seams. A small vertical tuck runs along the back sleeve so that the fullness was better controlled.

The lower portion of the dress is underlined with tulle to help hold the shape of the A-line skirt much better.

The lace trim for the sleeve was hand stitched to the inside of the sleeve hem. Special application for the Pierrette Collar was developed and will be detailed in the next post.

The ribbon used under the bust is 1/4″ grosgrain ribbon folded in half so that the finished width is 1/8″ It was applied to the dress after sewing bodice and skirt seam. Fell Stitches were used to sew ribbon to dress.

1:6 Scale Fashion Doll Lingerie

The bandeax and bikini panty shapes were drawn over the basic slopers and tested on scraps of cotton tulle. Adjustments had to be made to bring the fit closer to the doll’s body and allow for the stretch factor. This was a trial and error process.

The basic patterns for Kaitlynn’s bandeaux bra and bikini panties were made from 1:6 scale fitted bodice and shorts slopers. The stocking pattern was made by tracing the outline of the doll’s leg and foot when the leg and foot were placed sideways on a piece of white paper.

The elbow length glove pattern was created by placing the full length of the doll’s arm and hand against a piece of white paper and tracing around it. The hand for the glove is shaped like a mitten. Care has to be taken to leave enough space between thumb and the rest of the fingers.

To give the bandeaux and bikini panty a better look two pieces of stretch tulle were cut for each. A clear water soluble stabilizer was used for machine sewing. The stockings were not doubled.
Since bandeaux bras have a habit of curling over on dolls with shapely bustlines, I used narrow satin ribbons to create straps.

Cheongsam, New York Style-Part One

Kathrynne models her sheath dress and accessories inspired by the Chinese Cheongsam. A sheath pattern with two vertical darts on each side of the front and back dress formed the basis for the New York Style Cheongsam. Cap sleeves that are in one with the dress were added to the pattern. Instead of a Mandarin collar a high band collar cut on the lengthwise grain was used. No underlining was needed because the 100% cotton fabric used had enough body. A Japanese furoshiki with a small floral pattern suitable to 1:6 scale sewing provided the perfect look and feel for the dress.

The sheath dress was tapered at the side seams about 1/16″ at the hemline level. A line connecting this new point was drawn up to another point about 1/4′ down from the hipline. Instead of the side slits used in a traditional Cheongsam, a kickpleat was created at Center Back.

The Center Back placket was cut in one piece with the dress by adding 1/2″ to the Center Back of the pattern. In this way, the kickpleat was a continuation of the placket. Edges of the placket were finished with bias cut green tulle nylon vielling fabric. The collar at Center Back closes with a very small button and thread loop.

In New York Style Cheongsam, Part Two I will present close-ups and details for how the accessories for this ensemble were created.

A scan of this pattern is available for your use at https://theenchanteddressshop.wordpress.com/2015/11/03/pattern-scan-for-cheongsam-new-york-style-dress/